More and more books are coming into the TRC Library, covering a very wide range of subjects from prehistoric footwear, Chinese embroidery to various concepts linking fashion and celebrities. In the following book list I have chosen various books published in the last ten years that particularly caught my attention. This list of recommended books was made slightly more complex by the fact that the same publisher, SPA Uitgevers of Zwolle, sent the TRC two books with titles that indicated they were more or less on the same subject. Once I started looking and reading the books, however, it became very clear that the approaches taken to the same subject, pre-industrial leather footwear, were very different (see below). I came to the conclusion that if I wanted to date and understand the construction of early footwear then I would choose the more academic book by Marquita Volken. If on the other hand I wanted an introduction to early North European footwear then I would choose Olaf Goubitz’s book. In conclusion, therefore, I am glad to say that we have both books in the TRC Library as they will serve two different functions and audiences.
ATKINS, Jacqueline Marx (2015). The Textile Artistry of Itchiku Kubata: Kimono from the Kubota Collection, Moscow: The International Chodiev Foundation. Softback, 80 pp., full colour, bibliography. A Dutch translation accompanies the main book (if purchased at the Sieboldhuis, Leiden). Price: €29.50.
This is a book that accompanies an exhibition about the work of the Japanese master dyer, Itchiku Kubata (1917-2003). The booklet contains a biography of Kubata, as well as a history, the philosophy and working techniques used to create some of the most visually amazing and technically complex kimonos created in the 20th century and possibly any time prior to that. These garments were and are regarded as extremely ambitious art forms, which are calming at the same time. They encourage meditation. The author of the book explains the ideas behind the various series of kimonos and shows how Kubata envisaged them both as individual items and at the same time as a series of garments that depict how the passage of time (year, seasons, events) can be expressed using various dyeing techniques, aided by gilding and embroidery.
Recommendation: The book is intended for the general public, rather than an academic audience. It provides answers to many questions, while raising even more. It is worth while going through, just for the images of the kimonos. This book is recommended for anyone interested in Japanese textiles and dress, as well as dyers, textile artists, and in fact those who simply enjoy beautiful items. The book is currently available from the Sieboldhuis, Rapenburg 19, 2311 GE, Leiden, The Netherlands. GVE
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BERTAIN-GUEST, Josiane (2003), Chinese Embroidery: Traditional Techniques, London: B.T. Batsford. ISBN 0713487798. Hardback, 128 pp., bibliography, useful addresses, index, numerous colour illustrations and line drawings. Price: GB£ 17.99.
A practical introduction to the various forms of Han Chinese embroidery. It includes a brief history of Chinese embroidery, of the range of materials used, the basic techniques (including an extensive section on various embroidery stitches and how to work them), as well as of main symbols and motifs associated with Han Chinese embroidery.
Recommendation: This book presents a clear, practical introduction to the subject of Han Chinese embroidery and is useful to have for anyone starting to look into this subject or wanting to try this form of embroidery for the first time. It should be noted that the author does not discuss other forms of ethnic Chinese embroidery, such as Miao or Qiang embroidery, so the impression may be gained that this is the only form of Chinese embroidery, which is simply not the case. GVE
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CHURCH, Pamela Gibson (2012), Fashion and Celebrity Culture, London: Bloomsbury. ISBN 9781847883865. Softback, 288 pp., colour and b/w illustrations, extensive bibliography, index. Price: GB£ 17.99
An academic study that looks into the relationship between fashion (with a capital F) and celebrities from various areas of the artistic world including arts (painting, still photography), film, magazines, music, tv, as well as the fashion world itself, including designers and supermodels. The emphasis is on 20th century and current fashions. The author looks closely at the relationship between designers, producers, wearers, events and those who want to copy the perceived glamour and lifestyle associated with various garments. She also looks at how the press and media have used fashion to separate those who are glamorous, fashionable, eccentric, or simply ‘badly dressed.’ The role of the media in creating global celebrity fashions is also considered. There is a chapter concerned with Fashion and Society – classic versus fashionable. Her concluding thoughts are concerned with the folklore, fallibility and the future (but what form?) of Fashion. Unlike many Berg/Bloomsbury books this one includes various colour plates that make it much more readable.
Recommendation: An interesting read for anyone working in the fields of celebrities and/or fashion. The author's thoughts on how diverse celebrities such as George Clooney, Joan Collins, Angeline Jolie, Lady Gaga and Sting use clothing to send various fantasy messages are intriguing. GVE
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CLELAND, Liza, Mary HARLOW and Lloyd LLEWELLYN-JONES (eds; 2005, reprinted in 2010), The Clothed Body in the Ancient World, Oxford and Oakville: Oxbow Books, ISBN 978-1-84217-165-3. Softback, 192 pp., b/w illustrations, bibliography. Price: GB£34.
A collection of fifteen essays about different aspects of men and women’s clothing in the ancient world and how these garments are now perceived and interpreted (especially by the film industry). The range of subjects covered include Egyptian and Aegean, Classical Greek, Roman and late Antiquity textiles and dress. Some of the essays deal with make-up, cosmetics, concepts of nudity (ancient bras in particular), theatre costumes in the Classical world, Roman children’s garments, as well as relevant archaeological finds. In fact quite a mixture, which makes it more interesting than a strictly thematic collection. There is a lot to think about, especially as there is so much we do not know about clothing in the ancient world.
Recommendation: This book will be of interest to academics and the general public who are interested in dress and social life in the ancient world, as well as those involved in film/theatres and museums and who are seriously interested in being accurate. GVE
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GOUBIT, Olaf (2011), Stepping through Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 1800, first published in 2001 by the Stichting Promotie Archeologie (‘Foundation for Promoting Archaeology’), reprinted in 2011 by SPA Uitgevers (Zwolle). ISBN 9789089320049. Softback, 396 pp., a few b/w illustrations with hundreds of line drawings, catalogue, glossary, references, no index. Price: €37.50
Most of the book was written by Olaf Goubitz, with two extra chapters by Carol van Driel-Murray (‘Footwear in the North-Western Provinces of the Roman Empire’) and Willy Groenman-van Waateringe (‘Prehistoric footwear’). The author of the book is a professional leather conservator working for the National Service for Archaeological Research (ROB). During her career the author handled over 10,000 relevant items. The book constitutes a very detailed account of the various types of footwear produced and worn in the Netherlands and especially from the Dordrecht region, during the medieval period in particular (in this respect the book’s title is somewhat misleading, as it implies a considerably wider range of reference material). The first few chapters cover subjects such as what is footwear, a terminology, pictorial representations and dating, followed by a more technical section that considers materials, cutting patterns, stitches, decoration, fastenings, uppers, soles and so forth. There then follows an exhaustive catalogue based on a chronological order. Next there is information about some footwear found in the Dutch settlement on Nova Zembla dating from the late 16th century; the use of replicas for re-enactment purposes and a chapter on the conservation of archaeological leather. As noted above the title of this book promises more than it actually delivers. On the other hand the wealth of details presented in the catalogue about Dutch medieval and later footwear is well worth reading and will be vital for anyone studying medieval dress, footwear, and accessories. But the excellent chapters on Roman footwear from the North-Western provinces of the Roman Empire (Van Driel) and Prehistoric footwear from Europe and Scandinavia (Groenman-van Waateringe) appear to be tagged on at the end in order to fill out the book (and justify the title). The fact that these chapters are at the end of the book (rather than in the chronological order), with the Roman chapter preceding the Prehistoric one only strengthens this feeling.
Recommendation: This is certainly a book to have in any library concerned with medieval archaeology, dress and accessories, or indeed footwear in general and North European forms in particular. It contains a wealth of historical and technical information that makes it an invaluable reference source. GVE
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GUEST, Bridget (2010), Quakers in Stitches. The Quaker Tapestry: a community embroidery for story telling and celebration, Kendel: The Quaker Tapestry at Kendal Ltd. ISBN 0952543303. Softback, 31 pp., b/w illustrations and line drawings.
A booklet made to accompany the Quaker Tapestry (based in Kendal, England), a large-scale commemorative embroidery that was started in the early 1980s. It celebrates the role of Quakers throughout the world. The booklet includes information about the history of the Quaker Tapestry, who was involved in the designing and making of it, as well as details of the stitches used and how to make them. One of the stitches, the Quaker stitch, was specially designed for this embroidery. This book is accompanied by a CD disc with further details about the stitches and how to work them. Other books in this series include: ANON (2009). The Quaker Tapestry, An Introductory Guide, Kendal: Quaker Tapestry at Kendal, UK; Jennie LEVIN (1999). Living Threads: The Making of the Quaker Tapestry, Kendal: Quaker Tapestry at Kendal, UK; Edward H. MILLIGAN (1996). Pictorial Guide to the Quaker Tapestry, Kendal: Quaker Tapestry at Kendal, UK.
Recommendation: This booklet is deliberately intended for a limited audience, notably those working within the Quaker tradition of embroidery and historians of (commemorative) embroidery. Nevertheless it is an interesting addition to any library that wishes to have a comprehensive collection of books and related items about the history of decorative needlework. GVE
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KRODY, Sumru Belger (2006), Embroidery of the Greek Islands and Epirus Region: Harpies, Mermaids, and Tulips, London: Scala Publishers for The Textile Museum, Washington DC. ISBN 1857594266. Softback, 160 pp., numerous colour illustrations, bibliography, index.
The book includes various introductory chapters and a catalogue of items that relate to an exhibition called 'Harpies, Mermaids, and Tulips: Embroidery of the Greek Islands and Epirus Region,' held at the Textile Museum, Washington DC, March – September 2006. The exhibition was based on the extensive collection of Greek Island embroideries collected by George Hewitt Myers in the early 1900s and the acquisition in 1925 of many items from the Alan Wace’s collection (who was based in Cambridge, England). By the end of the 20th century the collection included over 120 items, many of which are used as illustrations in this book. As with all The Textile Museum publications, this particular volume by Sumru Krody presents a wide range of information – technical, functional, artistic – in an accessible manner. The items date from the early 17th century to the mid-19th century. The subject covered is particularly complicated because of the number of islands involved, their relationship with Ottoman and North African styles of embroidery, as well as economics, political and social considerations.
Recommendation: A useful book for anyone interested in the history, development and the various types of embroidery styles associated with the Greek Islands. GVE
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MILHAUPT, Terry Satsuki (2014), Kimono: A Modern History, London: Reaktion Books. ISBN 97817780232782. Softback, 312 pp., bibliography, index, colour images with some b/w photographs. Price: c. €27.
Recently there have been a number of books published on the theme of the iconic Japanese garment, the kimono. This volume is different in that it examines the ever changing role, appearance and use of the kimono from the 19th century to the present day. This intriguing book was the inspiration for a major exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York (September 2014-January 2015). The author looks at how Western materials, concepts and fashions have changed the kimono, as well as how this garment has had a profound effect on Western art and fashion. Most importantly the book emphasises how kimonos and kimono wearers are constantly adapting, not least through the use of modern media, notably the internet, whereby there is now an international following of men and women who wear the kimono in different ways with no regard to the wearer's cultural and ethinic origins; the kimono is 'simply' another form of dress. The book is divided into six main chapters that explore themes such as the kimono designers, kimono fashion industry, how the kimono has changed Western fashion ideals, shopping for kimonos, as well as seeing them as everyday items and as more elaborate forms.
Recommendation: This is a book that will intrigue anyone who is seriously interested in world dress and its history and modern developments, as well as anyone specifically interested in Japanese culture and clothing traditions. This book will help the reader think in a much broader manner than often occurs with 'traditional' costume books. Well worth having in any library. GVE
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SUR, Françoise (2013). La Chape de Saint Louis d'Anjou: Trésor du XIIIe siècle de l'opus anglicanum, Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine, Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume, Paris: Somogy editions d’art. ISBN 9782757206898. Softback, 105 pp., bibliography, numerous colour illustrations, including a pull out colour image of the cope. Price: €25.
An art historical study of a 13th century cope now in the Basilica of Saint Marie Magdalena in the town of Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region of south-eastern France. Building the basilica started in the late 13th century, but it was never finished. The basilica was founded by Charles II of Anjou (King of Naples) and was run by members of the Dominican order. The cope is associated with St. Louis d'Anjou (1274-1297), the son of Charles II of Anjou. It is decorated with numerous images relating to the life of Christ. The garment is embroidered with gold and coloured silk threads, using underside couching and split stitches. It is a very good example of Opus Anglicanum (literally ‘English Work’), a form of gold work embroidery practiced in England especially in the 13th to 14th centuries. During this period this form of embroidery was in great demand throughout Western Europe by many important religious bodies, including various popes. So it is not so surprising to find such an exceptional example in a once important church in this 'remote' part of France.
Recommendation: There are numerous works on Opus Anglicanum, but this particular example appears to have escaped the notice of many art and textile historians alike. The book will be of interest to anyone working within the field of medieval religious art and/or medieval European embroidery. GVE
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VOLKEN, Marquita (2014), Archaeological Footwear: Development of Shoe Patterns and Styles from Prehistory till the 1600’s, Zwolle: SPA Uitgevers; ISBN 9789089321176. Hardback, 428 pp., glossary, catalogue, bibliography and index. Price: €59.50.
This book is based on a PhD thesis presented at the University of Lausanne, Switzerland in October 2012 and this is reflected in the layout and structure of the volume in question. Volken’s study is divided into various sections, including an introduction to the study of footwear (called calceological research, for the few who did not know) and leather footwear in particular. This section includes a review of literature, sources, collections, and so forth. The methodology followed by Volken is discussed in detail. Next there is a discussion of the main types and chronology of leather footwear in Europe, Russia, Scandinavia, as well as North Africa from the Neolithic period to the end of the 16th century. In particular, attention is paid to the relation between an item of footwear and the animal hide from which it was cut (one piece, sole and uppers separate, and so forth). Hundreds of items of footwear were examined, drawn, and mulled over in order to create the various forms of topographies (side lace fastenings; back lace fastenings; buckle fastenings on the medial side; buckle and strap fastenings over an open instep, are just a few of the categories discussed on just TWO pages (206-207).
Recommendation: This book is for the seriously interested academic and footwear specialist who wants accurate, detailed information about the development of footwear. GVE
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WILLEMSEN, Annemarieke and Marlieke ERNST (2012), Hundreds of .... Medieval Chic in Metal: Decorative Mounts on Belts and Purses from the Low Countries, 1300-1600, Zwolle: Spa-Uitgevers, with the Foundation for Promoting Archaeology. ISBN 9789089321114. Softback, 152 pp., bibliography, index. Price: €19.50 (Dutch version) and €24.50 (English version).
Many of the items illustrated come from the collection of late Medieval belt mounts in the National Museum of Antiquities, Leiden, The Netherlands (RMO). The collection was made by Patrick Mackenbach and Marc Steenbergen. The collection was studied by the author and various students from Leiden University. The book covers a range of subjects, including what is a belt and a mount and the archaeological provenance of the items referred to. It then goes on to discuss techniques, manufacturing processes and how the items were actually distributed and sold. Another section discusses how these items were used (belts, purses, footwear), the decorative leatherwork for animals, symbolism and meaning as well as their international context (traded items). There is even a chapter on how the belts and mounts were reinforced and repaired. There then comes a side issue – metal buttons, which were a new fashion accessory in this medieval period. Finally, there is a nod to modern re-enactment groups: a final chapter on modern replicas, how they are made and used. The book is copiously illustrated with medieval manuscript illustrations and prints depicting the making, sale and use of belts and related items, side by side with actual examples.
Recommendation: This book includes a lot of new information about the range, function and indeed importance of this form of dress accessory in Medieval Europe. The main ‘problem’ is the price of the book, it is simply too expensive for the average archaeology student to purchase, but it would make a lovely birthday or Christmas present. GVE
